Castelbuono, a small town 20 kilometres inland from Cefalù, is one of Sicily’s forgotten treasures. Developed around a medieval castle and located in a quiet, rural setting, the town contains a remarkable collection of buildings and works of art by some of Sicily’s most prominent artists. For visitors to Sicily, Castelbuono offers a fascinating trip inland away from the hurly burly of the coastal cities.
The Parco delle Madonie, a protected nature reserve, extends from the lower hills near the coast, with vineyards and olive trees, to the high peaks of the mountains beyond. The higher ground, which contains extensive pine and beech woods, takes on an alpine character. Mountain streams flow from gorges down into the valleys which are filled with pastures for sheep and cattle. Castelbuono lies in a valley filled with oak, chestnut and cherry trees as well as the flowering ash which produces a sap called manna. This sap is collected and used both as a sweetner and as an ingredient in pharmaceutical products. The town, which has fewer than 10,000 inhabitants, is clean and well-preserved.
The region of the Madonie has a close relationship with Cefalù which dates back for centuries. The countryside supplied livestock and fresh produce for the urban population while the city offered a market and a port. In the fourteenth century, this relationship became closer with the emergence of the Ventimiglia family. This occurred in the aftermath of the Sicilian Vespers when the French were thrown off the island. The Ventimiglia, who came originally from Liguria in northern Italy, established themselves as the most powerful family in northern Sicily, providing viceroys, admirals and governors for the island. Their counterparts in Palermo were the Chiaramonte. In Cefalù, the Ventimiglia base was at the Osterio Magno in Corso Ruggero. In the Madonie region, they built themselves a castle which became known as Castelbuono.
The Ventimiglia began construction of the castle in 1316. It was built for defensive purposes on Byzantine foundations in the Arabo-Norman style and was intended for occasional use. In the mid-15 th century, members of the Ventimiglia family moved here from Palermo and began a major restructure which turned the castle into a palace fit for long-term residence. The building of churches and a private chapel followed in the 17 th century. The wealth and sophistication of the Ventimiglia meant that some of the best artists on the island were employed in these developments. In 1818/19 the area suffered from earthquakes which damaged the castle and surrounding buildings. Restoration and the opening of the castle to the public took place relatively recently.
The castle is located to the north of the town, a massive structure built for defence in uncertain times. Its forbidding exterior still stands while the interior now contains the museum and art galleries. Breath-taking for the abundance of its decoration is the Palatine Chapel, built in 1683 in the baroque style by the brothers Giuseppe and Giacomo Serpotta, as a private chapel for the family. It is the best example of the Serpottas’ work in stucco to be found outside Palermo.
There are some 16 churches spread out through the town, one of the most interesting being that of St Francis of Assisi, located to the south. A medieval façade from the 14 th century leads via a redeveloped interior containing notable paintings, to a set of 16 th century cloisters. An elaborate archway attributed to Francesco Laurana opens the way into the Ventimiglia mausoleum displaying a series of extravagant sarcophagi. In the nearby church known as the Matrice Vecchia, from the 14 th century, can be seen a statue of the Madonna & Child by Antonello Gagini.
One of the symbols of Castelbuono can be found in the town centre, the Fountain of Venus Ciprea, dating from 1614. One of a series of fountains constructed by the Ventimiglia, it is set against a stone wall containing niches for basins and statues. Its theme comes from the mythology of the classical era. In the centre appear statues of Venus and Cupid. The four panels below are of Greek origin and feature the goddess Diana. At the top of the structure stands a statue of Andromeda. According to a plaque, the statues were discovered on an archaeological site and are likely to be of ancient origin. This fountain is another example of the extraordinary treasures to be found in this small town.
